I have actually heard that the market average for spa pump motor has to do with 8 years. When the motor goes, you have an option– change just the motor, or buy the whole pump.
The exact same with the wet end, or the opposite end of the pump, you might simply replace a brand-new damp end onto the existing motor. We have a big inventory of parts for spa pumps, to repair almost any pump problem.
However … if you ‘d rather not get your hands unclean, and prefer to just change the whole pump– motor and wet end, then this post is for you. Here’s ways to change a normal spa pump, wired into a spa pack.
1. Examine the Frame, Horsepower, Voltage & Speed
You don’t desire to set up the incorrect pump, so get out your reading glasses and a flashlight, and check the label on the pump motor. Try to find FR which indicates frame type (48 or 56), HP for horse power( 1– 5), Voltage (115 or 230) and Speed (single or double). Replace your existing pump with the very same size and type spa pump.
Pay attention to how the pump discharge is oriented, is it on the side, or on the leading? These are 2 different wet ends. The side discharge spa pump can be rotated to different areas by loosening up the volute screws, but the center discharge is leading dead center– 12:00.
If you have questions on choosing the appropriate spa pump, please call or email us!
2. Turn off the Power
Do not take chances, discover the correct breaker that feeds the spa and shut it off. Utilize a piece of tape over the breaker so that nobody mistakenly turns it back on. After turning off the breaker, test to be sure that power is off, then you can continue to take apart and remove the existing pump.
3. Disconnect Old Spa Pump
Start with getting rid of the bare copper bonding wire that is connected to the pump. Now, presuming that the spa is drained, or you have valves closed to prevent the water from running out, slowly loosen up the union nuts on the inbound and outbound water connections of the spa pump. 1-10 gallons of water will drain pipes out, so be prepared if your spa lies inside.
If your spa pump is bolted to the flooring, use a wrench or socket to remove the bolts on the motor footpad.
When you can move the pump, position it to offer you simple access to the wires coming into the rear of the motor. Open the cover plate and you will discover 3-wires for a single speed pump, and 4-wires for a two-speed spa pump. With a screwdriver, nut driver or needle nose, you can get rid of the wires from their terminal screws, and after loosening the cord clamp on the motor, gently pull the wire cable television out of the existing motor.
For a two-speed motor, note or label the high speed and low speed wires, to wire correctly to the new motor. Get out your glasses and flashlight once again, you’ll find the terminal screws are labeled in extremely tiny print.
4. Connect New hot tub Pump
You’ll discover it easier to wire the motor before you slide the pump beneath the spa. If the wires are not an actual spa pump cable, the colors may be different.
Remove the pump cable clamp from the old motor and screw it into the wire access port of the brand-new motor. Place the pump cable through the clamp, and connect the wires to the terminals.
Tighten up the pump cord clamp where the wires go into the rear of the motor, and change the motor end cap or cover.
Next, you can thread on the union nuts to the brand-new spa pump, making sure that the o-ring is still undamaged, and has not fallen out. Hand tighten the union nuts firmly. The last action is to re-secure the bolts that hold the motor foot pad to the flooring or base. This helps reduce vibration sound. Utilizing a rubber pad underneath the pump can assist reduce it even further.
Finally, reconnect the bare copper bonding wire to the bonding lug on your new spa pump.
5. Checking a New Spa Pump
Once the pipes on the pump is tightened up, you can begin to fill the spa. When you have the spa about half full, open the valves and loosen up the inbound spa union to enable any air lock to get away, and tighten up strongly when water begins to drip. Continue to fill the spa complete, while trying to find any leakages around the new spa pump.
When the spa is complete, switch on the breaker to check your spa pump, going through it’s rates. Ensure that your heating system kicks on and that everything looks and sounds correct.
A fairly basic treatment, however if you require any support in changing spa and hot tub pumps, we have spa techs waiting waiting for your call or email!
No matter which company you purchase you swim spa from they will offer a traditional rigid foam filled spa cover. And just like every other foam filled cover ever made, those panels will eventually begin to saturate with moisture from the steam coming off the spa water, until they are too heavy to lift.
Bar lifters won’t help once the cover becomes too heavy either because you will still have to flop it over the bar while trying not to strain yourself. Then push it off the end of the spa. When the cover is heavy it will either rip itself apart (because the seam of the cover is not built to handle the added weight) or worse it will rip the bar lifter off the sides of your spa potentially causing damage to the spa cabinet.
The SpaCap Swim Spa Covers by contrast, don’t employ foam so there is nothing to soak up the moisture. They are built to stay lightweight and easy to use. Visit SpaCap.com and order one for your swim spa today.